November in Essoyes

“Every year in our little village the names of each of the men whose names are carved on the memorial is read, followed by a “Mort pour la France!” shouted by a member of the sapeurs pompiers (firefighters). It takes a while to read all those names, which gives the people paying tribute to their sacrifice time to think about what it really means…”

Continue Reading November 16, 2016 at 1:03 pm Leave a comment

Autumn in Essoyes

…As always, the vendange brought new faces and a new bustling energy to the town for those 10 days. Rain or shine, cool, misty mornings, blazingly hot afternoons, students, gypsy families, and of course many townspeople pitched in to bring in the grapes…

Continue Reading October 23, 2016 at 6:54 pm Leave a comment

Storing Up Wood for the Winter–in Champagne

The first problem was that I knew basically none of the things one would need to know in order to get wood for the winter. Here is an almost verbatim transcript of the first conversation I had with a friend who was trying to help me figure it out…

Continue Reading October 14, 2016 at 7:28 pm 4 comments

Q & A with Harriet Welty Rochefort, Author of “Joie de Vivre” and other books about the French

The author of “Joie de Vivre” and “French Toast: An American in Paris Celebrates the Maddening Mysteries of the French” talks about misconceptions on both sides of the Atlantic, what she loves about the French (and about the U.S.) and her new novel…

Continue Reading October 1, 2016 at 1:53 pm Leave a comment

And then they were gone…

Les gens de voyage came here to pick grapes during the harvest…and then they were gone again…

Continue Reading September 27, 2016 at 1:44 pm Leave a comment

September in Essoyes…

It has not been an easy year for the vignerons in this area, whose year-round, painstaking, exacting work brings the world one of life’s greatest pleasures…champagne…

Continue Reading September 18, 2016 at 5:02 pm 2 comments

August in Essoyes

…some people leave to go to the South of France on vacation, and others come here to vacation, mostly from Paris, but also from Belgium and other places. You can tell the tourists from the townspeople (or the summer people) by the little maps they clutch in their hands as they walk the streets, following the trail of Renoir in Essoyes…

Continue Reading August 16, 2016 at 9:44 am Leave a comment

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